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Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Borobudur and Prambanan: Indiana Jones Time


It was time to begin the crazyyy trek across Java. From Yogyakarta, we would minibus our way to the end of Java. And the pitstops, were absolutely breathtaking.

We opted to go with a tour company as it really saved us a lot of trouble finding transportation and accomodation, and still left enough freedom to do what we wanted. It was the most time effective way of going about this too, and time was precious.

So I packed my 40 litre rucksack about halfway (to leave room for gifts) threw on my climbing shoes and was ready to really get my Indiana Jones on. And let me tell you, did I ever. So 4am arrives, I have my daily banana pancakes and jump on the minibus. It is here I meet the two craziest Swedish girls. They became our travelling buddies for the rest of the Java trek, and I even had a random surprise encounter with them later on in the trip! More on this when Bali comes into play.

Many Swedish sing-a-longs, bumpy roads and chocolate crispy banana chips later, we arrive at the first destination; Borobudur. Check any travel book, this is a must see. Infact, it is the single most visited destination in Indonesia, and a UNESCO world heritage site. And for good reason.

Borobudur

Borobudur is a Buddhist monument built in the 9th century. It was a site frequented by the Buddhist population on Java during the Sailendra dynasty. Pilgrimages were held here, and the centuries old stories were engraved into the entire structure's reliefs. Every wall tells a story, and this was the part I was most fascinated by.

By the 14th century after the decline of Buddhism and Hinduism in Java and the rise of Islam, this monumental structure was left to be buried in volcanic ash and jungle. In 1814 it was rediscovered by the British ruler of Java (the British occupation was very brief, the Dutch then took over). As time passed it was restored gradually until 1975 when the Indonesian government and UNESCO completely restored the structure $7 million later.

I am lucky enough to have seen this historic treasure. Here are a few pictures that attempt to capture its amazing presence in the heart of the Javanese rainforest.








Prambanan

While Borobudur remains the stronghold of the Buddhist religion in Java, Prambanan is the largest Hindu temple. Hinduism in Java was widespread until the 14th century and has since retreated. However, most stories told in the Wayang (shadow puppet) theater performances around Indonesia are representations of the classical Indian Hindu epics "The Mahabarata" and "The Ramayana". To this day this remains crucial to Indonesian culture, and the entire island of Bali retains its Hindu origins.


Also built in the 9th century, and also discovered by a British surveyor, Pramaban was found in ruins. To this day only the largest structures remain after restoration efforts, since much of the stone for the smaller structures were used over the centuries by looters for their own construction purposes. In 2006 an earthquake further damaged the temple, and restoration efforts are still under way. Despite all this, the view waiting for me was equally as breathtaking as Borobudur.

Prambanan was built as a monument to Trimurti, the three expressions of God, the creator (Brahma), the sustainer (Vishnu) and the destroyer (Shiva). Equally as detailed with relief carvings covering the entire temple (though far more damaged) it truly is remarkable to see how much time and effort was put into its construction.

Have a look:






Experiences in between

This would feel incomplete if I didn't mention the experiences in between. That is the best part of travelling and really is what makes your trip your own. As mentioned we reached all these sites in minibus. Having had stomach troubles throughout the duration of the trip you can only imagine how comfortable it was for me that stopping was not an option.

Another memorable experience was meeting other travelers at all the markets and Warungs (small food booths). It was so exciting hearing the stories everyone had to tell, and learning where everyone was from. It was amazing just how many French speaking people I came across, and this has reignited my desire to learn to speak French.

Aside from meeting other people, it was amazing how many times I really was learning more about myself. When you are standing on a 1100 year old temple, with a tropical breeze and the distant sounds of nature, you can't help but have a moment. You have these amazing realizations and powerful feelings surge through you, and you really feel alive. Nothing is better than that feeling.

=) More to come.

Friday, April 8, 2011

Yogyakarta: The Soul of Java

Ah yes, lets get back on this story telling time. For the best stories are still to come! At the start of the month long trip across Java and Bali, my first destination was Yogyakarta. I LOVED IT.



History of Yogyakarta:

While Jakarta is the nations capital, Yogyakarta is its soul. It is here where you will find the roots of the Javanese peoples, and the remenants of their rich culture. Here in Yogya, you will hear a different language spoken on the streets. The Javanese language is one of the most widely spoken languages and it also lent much of its structure to Bahasa Indonesian. I always enjoyed flexing my new language abilities, and this time I got to learn bits of a completely new language.

Yogya is run by a sultan, from the central palace (kraton) and to this day maintains this royal status. Its neighboring Solo has its own royal family as well, and this rivalry between the two has gone on for hundreds of years.

If it is art and batik you are looking for, you are in the right place in Yogya.

The experience

I am ashamed to say that I decided against taking the train to Yogyakarta from Jakarta. While it was much cheaper, it also took soooo much longer and truth be told the trains are pretty sketchy. So I gave into my spoiled western needs for comfort and bought a plane ticket instead. I know I know, I'm killing our environment... I promise I'll buy carbon credits to offset it when I have a legit job.



Fitting with the style of the entire trip (Lets go back to day one, where I boarded a plane to the other side of the planet with no plans for accommodations and no idea where to go!) I got off the plane in the middle of the night, on one of the busiest periods of the year. It took sooooo long to find a hostel. The first night I ended up sharing a single bed. The next night I struck the jackpot and found an amazing hostel with amazing people and EVEN BETTER BANANA PANCAKES! (from this day on, every single morning I had banana pancakes)

So what to do in Yogya?

ussually,

- buy batik paintings (more on this later)
- check out the kraton (palace)
- museums
- markets

I definitely didn't follow that. Decided against the kraton as it was super busy, expensive and I heard from fellow hostel travelers it really wasn't worth it. Apparently its not well kept and rather bland and crumbling. I skipped the museums too. I wanted to see the city alive as it was, and so I went on numerous strolls through the markets, streets and alleys. Met amazing local people and had great food.

It was nearing Ramadan and this meant festivities were taking place for one final hurrah! before the fasting month. Right on time. I'm going hiking and trekking, and theres going to be no food to be found. Luckily, I only ran in to trouble once with this. (refer to Kawah Ijen, two blogs from now)

We went out to the bars, listening to reggae and rock and everything in between. A highlight of my Yogya stay was the street festival. The entire city gathered on the main street and just jammed out. It was a free for all. If you wanted to go sing, you could. You can't even imagine the amount of fun I was having. Wildest night.





The next highlight was a direct result of me staying off the beaten path. I decided to wander out of the tourist area and actually ended up in the residential quarters of the royal palace. I saw a man approach me and I knew he was going to ask me to leave. I didn't even know how I got in there. Turns out he was very welcoming with perfect English. He was a former tour guide for the kraton and was very excited when I told him I was Canadian. He ran to his house, and grabbed a book all about Canada. We went through the pictures and I told him all about them.

He asked me if I had any plans and I told him I'm not much of a planner, and that I was just strolling. He offered to take me on a tour and also offered to take us to his friends Batik Painting store, called Batik Cemeti. This is where I hit the jackpot once again.

From the previous encounters with people hassling me to buy their batik paintings, I got a general idea of how much they wanted. It ussually hovered around the 800,000RP ($85) range. I knew I was being ripped off. At the store this man took me too, he showed me the paintings in progress, and offered me similar quality paintings for a TENTH of the price. I walked away with 3 amazing paintings for a total of $25. If you are ever in Yogya, look for Batik Cemeti! Ask around and do not buy paintings from street offers!

Here are some pictures of the amazing experience at Batik Cemeti. You see the woman applying the wax, which is then dipped into dye, and those areas left unwaxed get painted. Then this process is repeated for each seperate colour. Its a painstakingly long process. In another picture you see the man who took me on the tour showing me the organic dyes.





I was so thankful and so excited to meet this man, that I offered to take him out for dinner. We walked to his favourite Satay Ayam place and conversed.

Yogya was so much fun, but it is the stepping stone to Java's most remarkable sites. Here is where you can buy a tour package to visit Prambanan and Borobodur (amazing temples) and Mount Bromo and Kawah Ijen (volcanoes)

So I bought my tour package, and was off to climb ancient temples and active volcanoes! Thats coming in the next blog =)

Friday, February 4, 2011

Half a year later, updates are coming!

So with midterms just around the corner, and having a least 80 hours of research left for my final project at Humber, I've decided this is the best time to start working on something else. I need to actually finish this Indonesia blog, and maintain this blog to include my current life events.

I've been back home in Canada since September and have had many things going on! Of course, this is not the time to speak of that yet, as I have to finish the rest of my Indonesia story!

Expect 3 or more blogs coming soon (we may have different definitions of the word soon haha!) to include the rest of the Java trek, Bali and my remaining time in Jakarta.

Then its Canada stories time!

Exciting times. Miss you all in Indonesia!